Sunday, September 25, 2011

Self-Stitched-September Item 4

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This dress got off to a shaky start. BurdaStyle magazine patterns and I haven't always gotten along in the past. There is the lack of seam allowances, the weird sizing (or, 'standard' sizing that never fits me, ever) and a few other things that we have disagreed about in the past. But, I'd had some success with BurdaStyle patterns recently (my Kasia skirt, the one piece kimono tee and the ruby shorts), so I decided to give the magazine patterns another go.

So far so good. I'm feeling happy that the patterns work, even if they miss like half the steps in the instructions. I can totally do a magazine pattern. So, when I downloaded the BurdaStyle DrapĂ© Dress pattern the first time, I cut the pattern pieces out without adding any seam allowances. Fail.

I downloaded the pattern again, added my seam allowances, took out some facing folds (replacing them with full lining) everything was going okay. Then, after 5 or 6 attempts, I still couldn't get the drape waistband to sit how it should. So, I cut my losses and gathered the cotton gauze onto my poplin lining.  I even stitched it down for good measure (or, so it would survive being thrown in the washing machine. Whichever you think is more... correct). Again, so far so good.

I added the bodice pieces, pleating them by hand (mainly because I didn't feel like dealing with gathering stitches anymore), and sewed the skirt on. Then I tried it on, and it was super tight. Like, I don't think I can sit down tight. Not the best way for a dress to start, really.

But, given that this was acting as my test garment, I kept going.

The next hurdle was the shoulder seam. It was much much to long. Like, 8cm to look. I divided this into three tucks, which I don't mind the look of. And, I even remembered to alter the pattern s the next version doesn't have too long shoulders.

This dress was sewn for the Something Floral, Something Blue Sew Weekly challenge. I wore it out to afternoon tea with friends today, and it was actually quite comfortable, not too tight at all.

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Fabric: Thrifted Blue flower cotton gauze from stash; 4 m blue poly cotton $18.20
Pattern: Burda Style Draped dress pattern, $5.40
Year: 2011
Notions: Thread, 5 spools $3.25 each, total $16.25
Time to complete: Too long, with the troubles I had with the waistband! 
First worn: September 2011
Wear again? Yes
Total Cost: $43.11

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Self-Stitched-September Item 3


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I’ve had some red Swiss dotted cotton sitting in my stash for maybe 9 months now. I bought it when I was trying to sew myself a professional wardrobe, and then (rightly) decided that it wasn’t really appropriate for work – a bit too informal. So, it’s just been sitting there. But, along with my attempt to work my way through the Sew Weekly challenges, and my Self-Stitched-September challenge, now seemed like the perfect opportunity to use it. 

I had always intended the fabric to be a dress, and as I was looking through the challenges on Sew Weekly and my style pinboard on pinterest, realised that I had the perfect fabric for the Day After Dress from ModCloth. They seemed to be the perfect combination for the 'Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery' challenge. Yes, I know that ModCloth items aren’t that expensive, but when you add in international shipping, they tend to become just a bit outside of my price range, and the Day After Dress is sold out. So, I don’t feel quite so bad about ripping it off.




Now, I probably could have drafted the dress from scratch, but I was feeling lazy. So I went through my pattern collection, and came across this pattern from 1978. On first glance, it doesn’t look too much like the Day After Dress, but it has the important neck band. So, all I would have to do would be add the waist band and shorten the sleeves. Simple! 




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I pulled the pattern out and realised that the pattern didn’t have either the hips or the natural waist marked. So, I kinda held it up against me, and figured that the cutting line for the shorter version fell at about my hip height. My waist is about 30 cm from my hip level, so I drew a line to mark the new ‘waist’ following the cut line. I traced out the pattern, added seam allowances, (including a seam allowance to the centre back), shortened the skirt pieces about 6cm, and used the piece I had just cut off the bottom as my waistband. For the sleeves, I really liked the raglan sleeve look, but it was way too long. So, I traced off the sleeve pattern, marking the cut line/hem as between the notches. And voila! I had a pattern for my very own Day After Dress.

Most of the work for this dress was in sewing on the piping. I made about 8m of pining, and 30cm of cording for the button loops at the back. That’s a decent amount of bias strips to make, but so worth it.

For the bodice, I used a self facing, but the skirt is unlined. I gathered and sewed, and added buttons, and hemmed.

And then, I was done. One Day After Dress. 




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It’s not exactly the same as the original – the main difference being that the back, with the open centre back seam, blouses out a lot more. I’m not a fan of the exposed bra look, so I’m probably going to have to sew a couple of hook and eyes on to keep things in place. But otherwise, I’m really happy with the result.  



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Fabric: red swiss cotton from stash; 1/2 m white poplin $2.30
Pattern: Simplicity 8412, with alterations $0.50
Year: 1978
Notions: 5 m piping, $3.50; zipper $3.00
Time to complete: An afternoon
First worn: September 2011
Wear again? Yes! This dress is super comfortable. But I will add some hook and eyes to the back so my bra isn't exposed.
Total Cost: $9.30


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Saturday, September 17, 2011

How I often end up sewing...


My cat has a firm belief that if I'm siting down, my lap is his. So, I spend a lot of time with him pinning me down. Which means that I often end up spending time sewing like this:

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Taking Stock - week 20



 What I accomplished this week (Friday to Thursday)

Herringbone wool skirt Home / Work Clothing














Finished Projects 2011












Autumn leaf table runner Gifts (Tarof Family)
Ruffle dress Work Clothing
Olive dress Work Clothing
* Maroon Skirt Work Clothing
* White damask skirt Work Clothing
White Damask blazer Work Clothing
Magenta stretch dress Work Clothing
Green stretch dress Work Clothing
Apron for Robyn Gifts
* Oopsie the Octopus Gifts (Tarof Family)
Circles Table Runner Gifts (Tarof Family)
A5 art book bag Gifts (Tarof Family)
1950s Apron Gifts (Tarof Family)
4 x Baby bibs Gifts (Tarof Family)
Kyles’ art book messenger bag Gifts (Tarof Family)
Wild West dress for stomp Home Clothing
* Embroidery practice Gifts
3 x olive cushion covers House Stuff
* Drafted red ruffle skirt pattern
Navy swirl skirt Home / Work Clothing
Lace underskirt Home / Work Clothing
Beige button skirt Home / Work Clothing
Teal dress (coffee date dress) Home / Work Clothing
4 x cream cushions (and now I’m all done with cushion covers) House Stuff

Projects on the go


* Beaded Obi Belt
* Double Circle Skirt
* Blazer with teal and black design Work Clothing
* Red Ruffle Skirt Home / Work Clothing

Future Projects with fabric already purchased
* 52 weeks of quilt blocks quilt Christmas 2011
Teal blazer to go with damask skirt Home Clothing
* Black damask dress Work Clothing
* Pink and black damask dress Work Clothing
* Hearts dress (fabric) Home Clothing
* Hearts dress (quilt cover) Home Clothing
* Tara top – floral quilting fabric Home Clothing
* Tara dress – pink quilting fabric, Home Clothing
* Ying Yang gathered top Home / Work Clothing
* Red ruffle skirt Home / Work Clothing
* Blue corset with quilting fabric Home Clothing
* Refashion of black patterned dress from Big W Home Clothing
* Refashion of purple patterned dresses from Big W Home Clothing
* Underskirts / petticoats for summer dresses Home / Work Clothing
* Hot pink drill dress Home Clothing
* Hot pink check dress with pleats to create pink waist Home Clothing
* Red and Black Wool Skirt Home / Work clothing
Over skirt with buttons (inspired by pinterest skirt) leaf baby cord Home Clothing
Hot pink and Aqua skirt with flower/ reverse applique design Home Clothing
Future Project Ideas
* Shorts for pole Home Clothing
* Olive jacket/ coat Home / Work Clothing
* Slips to keep me warm under summer dresses Home / Work Clothing
* Duro Dress / top Home / Work Clothing
* Over-The-Head 1950s reproduction pattern dress Home / Work Clothing
* Bag thing to cover and carry my baby sewing machine Sewing Gadgets
* bias tape skirt Home Clothing



UFO Projects - or, the sewing basket challenge
This is things that I know I have to do, but just haven't quite gotten to yet
* Hem red and orange long skirt
* Waistband on red satin circle skirt
* Waistband on can can underskirt
* Move debutantes dress zipper to side and lower neckline
* loose lace on stomp wedding dress
* redo waistband on wild west dress
* make red crepe wrap around skirt wearable
* pockets for mums red jacket
* polka dot ruffle skirt
Fabrics in my stash
As I slowly go through my stash, I will keep updating this list. Because honestly, I have no idea what is in my stash at the moment. These are just the things in the boxes I can get to.
* Purple/red/blue knitted fabric
* Fan fabric
* Striped (white base) terry towelling – polycotton – 1.5m, 150cm wide
* Fish (white base) terry towelling – polycotton – scraps
* White/Cream stretch fabric – 100% cotton – 1m, 150cm wide
* Hearts in straight line (white base) stretch fabric – 100% cotton – 1.5m, 150cm wide
* Green leaves fabric – 100% cotton – 1m, 115 wide
* Green and white Michael miller dandy damask – 100% cotton – 3 yards, 150cm wide
* Red with blue and white whales fabric – 100% cotton – 1.5m, 150cm wide
* Navy blue acrylic felt – .6m, 80cm wide
* Rose pink stretch drill - Cotton lycra - 4.9m, 150cm wide
* Rose bed sheets
* Black satin bed sheets
* green micheal miller fabric
* Japanese leaf fabric
* More black sating than I know what to do with
* black shot with navy blue pleated/crinkled satin. - 100% manmade, 1m, 150cm wide
* lilac tulle knit, - 100% man made, 1m, 150cm wide
* hot pink tulle knit, - 100% man made, 1m, 150cm wide
* pink tshirt weight knit, unknown fibre, .5m, 150cm wide
* purple tshirt weight knit, unknown fibre, .5m, 150cm wide
* hot pink fleece (hoodie material), 1m, 150cm wide
* light pink fleece (hoodie material), 1m, 150cm wide
* grey knit with red design, 10m, 150cm wide
* red organza, 3m, 150cm wide (has flaws)
* white fabric with flowers, tshirt weight stretch, 1m, 150cm wide
* small pieces: purple striped t shirt weight knit (used for d of e skirts)
* small pieces: hearts on blue t shirt weight knit (used for d of e skirts)
* white with yellow polka dots t shirt weight knit, 1m, 150cm
* small pieces: black t shirt weight knit
* baby blue t shirt weight knit, 1 m, 150cm wide
* green paisley satin, 2m, 150cm wide
* yellow with butterflies, quilting weight cotton, 1m, 150cm wide
* small pieces: red with pink stars polar fleece
* small pieces: purple with sparkle quilting weight cotton
* with with stripes (d of e skirt and pants) t shirt weight knit, 1m, 150cm wide
* purple slinky lycra, 2m, 150cm wide
* baby yellow with small white spots t shirt wight knit, small piece
* small piece: plain lavender cotton
* small piece: green with flowers quilting weight cotton
* burnt orange flowers corduroy
* burnt orange cheese cloth
8 in 28 ideas
* Red Crepe Ruffle Skirt
* Green and black damask skirt (COMPLETED)
* Pink and black piped dress
* Tara Dress (pink fabric)
* Tara top (quilting fabric)
* Duro Dress
* 1950s Wrap Dress
* Button Skirt and Cream underskirts (COMPLETED)
* Black and red wool Skirt
* Blue Cushion Covers (COMPLETED)
* Baby cord leaf skirt







Stash Busting Ideas


* Top with purple/red/blue knitted fabric Home / Work Clothing
* 1950s inspired swim suit from purple lycra Home Clothing